The Homestay Development in Sapa

A visit to the local tour operators in Hanoi revealed that the current tourism development in Sapa is lacking clear structure. Sapa is facing an increase in tourist visitations, but with the lack of facilities and amenities, the region is slowly reaching its capacity and becoming overcrowded. The tour operators in Hanoi have been seeing the rapidly increasing demand for homestays, but as many homes do not meet the criteria of the tour operators, they are not considered for their clients. Simultaneously, some villagers are not motivated to upgrade their homes, because they had yet to witness the influx of tourists in the village themselves; this creates a problematic catch-22 situation.

Meeting with Mr. Hoang Nguyen, HandSpan Travel IndoChina

Mr. Hoang Nguyen, the Vice Director of HandSpan Travel Indochina shared that his experiences working with the local women of Sapa have been positive- but not without its own set of challenges. He has the drive to work directly with the locals there, because it helped him create authentic experiences for his clients, and because it also helped enrich the lives of the local community. According to Mr. Hoang, he felt that enforcing modern living standards and infrastructure in the homes would challenge the truly authentic village experience. To quote him, “the soul of the homestay is important”.  

Late last summer, our CBT Vietnam project linked the Hmong women of Lao Chai with the tour operators of Hanoi, by bringing a small group of women to the big city. One of the women's meetings was with HandSpan Travel Indochina. When they met with Mr. Hoang’s company, the representatives liked the women's proposal and took the opportunity to form a business partnership with them. Unfortunately, he still struggles to meet the demand of his clients, because there wasn’t enough developed homestays. He felt that HandSpan simply required more support from larger tour operators to affect real change. In fact, he has already tried calling the big players to encourage them to work with the locals more, and use local services (like staying at homestays and eating traditional home cooked meals). He believes that those companies can and should assist with the development because they possess a larger client base and expertise.

In the village of TaPhin, Lao Cai, Vietnam

Looking into the future, the homestay owners still need some support from companies to develop the structures and systems needed for a tourist destination to thrive. If both parties can come together and form a synergetic relationship, then the goal can be accomplished and the needs of both parties can be met.

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Late night memories from Lao Chai

I can't believe we have been home from Vietnam for a week already! Saying "see you later" to Vietnam was sad, but I left the trip with so many special memories. There is one particular that keeps bringing a smile back to my face.

While in the village of Lao Chai, I got to spend the day helping the villagers prepare to meet tour operators in Hanoi with the CBT Team. Our training session was held at Ms. May's beautiful house. I was so impressed with how eager the women were to learn what Mia and I were teaching. Frequently, I thought back to moments when I was in the classroom at Capilano University, where it seemed as though none of my classmates were paying attention to the content that they had paid tuition to learn. This was not the case in Lao Chai! After each concept we covered about professionalism during business meetings, the women would burst into excited discussion. There was a keen interest from the villagers to learn  above and beyond what we had taught them already. Ms. Do (pronounced "z-uh") for example, was so excited about practicing her new English words that she asked if she could meet Mia and I later that evening to practice her pronunciation. We were more than happy to help! 

At the end of the day, we had the opportunity to stay overnight at Ms. Xung's home stay. Ms. Dq joined us after dinner so that we could help her go over some of the food vocabulary items she was struggling with. If I had been in Vancouver, I would have simply pulled up images on my computer to help her visualize the words she was saying. However, because we didn't have laptops or Internet available, I tried my best to draw examples of what we were talking about. Despite my lack of artistic skill, she seemed to understand and remember the words a lot better with the drawings. It was such a pleasure helping her practice new words! She was so happy to be learning something new that she almost lost track of time. We eventually had to call it a night because the next day we would be bringing the villagers to Hanoi.

As I head into my final semester of my Bachelor of Tourism Management at Capilano University, I will dearly remember that night with Ms. Dq.  Because of her passion for learning, I will take with me a renewed enthusiasm for my education. It's amazing how it can be taken for granted when you've been in school for a while. Teaching Ms. Dq was an excellent reminder to be appreciative of the opportunities that I have been given, and to push myself to keep learning.

 

Photo taken by Mia Chiappetta McCannel

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T-minus 4-days to Vietnam!

I sit here today in anticipation for this incredible trip that Kyle and I will embark on in less than a week!

These last four months have been a whirl wind of trip prepping, regular meetings with the team, working our day jobs and all the while trying to rock our studies. I have a few more tasks to complete, but it feels awesome that all this intense preparation will be worth it once we have arrived in Vietnam, where we will actually get down to business in Hanoi and Lao Chai.

Neither Kyle nor I have ever been anywhere in Asia before, and we are both so excited that we have the opportunity to experience Vietnam for the first time together. I am also super eager to immerse myself in a completely new culture.

However, with a new culture comes the risk of culture shock. So, I am currently trying to mentally prepare myself for the shock of a new environment but from what people tell me the culture shock may be inevitable. I am now starting to believe my best plan of action is to just try and relax and enjoy this adventure! Although, to keep a bit of the homesickness at bay, I’m bringing a few things with me that will remind me of my life in Vancouver. Check them out in the picture below!

A few of my favourite things. 

Keep an eye out for my next post upon arrival into Hanoi to get our first impressions of the country. Until then, wish us luck on our 24 hours of travelling from Canada to Vietnam!

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Behind the Scenes with Kyle Sandilands

Kyle Sandilands has been a volunteer with CBT Vietnam since 2011. He graduated from Capilano University’s Motion Picture Production program and has recently completed a new video, The Black H’mong of Lao Chai Village. In just a few days, the video has received over 1,000 views from 33 countries, and is continuing to be shared with viewers from around the world. I asked Kyle a few questions to get a better idea of what this process was like behind the scenes.

Photo courtesy of Kyle Sandilands 

From the initial concept to the final posting online, how long does it take you to create something like this?

It takes a long time to put together a video like this. In this particular video, scenes with Chris Carnovale and Jen Reilly chatting with the H'mong guides on the streets of Sa Pa were shot on my first trip to the region four years ago and did not have a home in the edits of any of the previous videos that focused on the Red Dao in Ta Phin. Telling the story of the Black H’mong guides and sellers in Sa Pa is something we’ve wanted to do for a long time, and now that the CBT Vietnam project has begun to wrap up training in Ta Phin it was only natural that last May’s trip would be the time. We shot it in May, edited a rough cut to screen for the PATA Foundation in September and continued to edit it over the past few months between other projects. It’s great to have it finally online!

Photo courtesy of Kyle Sandilands

How important would you say it is creating materials like this for the Sa Pa region and the H’mong people?

It’s very important. There is so many travellers I meet who know little to nothing about the H’mong or any of the minority groups in the Sa Pa region. Often I hear that the area is too ‘touristy’ or that the sellers are too aggressive. Or that visiting these villages and snapping photos of the people resembles a type of 'human zoo'.

These are all valid concerns, but hopefully with the videos, it can both help share the stories and perspectives of the villagers who call Sa Pa home, and better inform travellers to the area about the positive and negative effects tourism is having on the region, as well as what CBT Vietnam’s role is.

What is your greatest memory or favourite shot that you have gotten throughout this project?

The trip to Hanoi with the Dao women was a pretty amazing experience. Watching the ladies overcome their own hesitations to leave Ta Phin for the big city was incredible to be a part of and to try to see the world through their eyes. Filming the ladies ride escalators for the first time, test out massage chairs and eat sushi was something I’ll never forget. For the newest video, I really tried to showcase just how beautiful and expansive the area is, as well as focus on the intricate details that make up the H’mong culture. Embroidery, batik, harvesting rice - it really is an amazing culture.

What projects are you currently working on, and what can we look forward to seeing from you in the future?

Right now I’m back in Canada working onset on a film in Vancouver, and am in prep on a few more documentary projects.

Photo courtesy of Kyle Sandilands 

What does this project mean to you?
Going to Vietnam with this project in 2011 was absolutely a life-changing experience that opened my eyes to this amazing area and incredible people. It opened the doors to many other interesting projects since, both in Canada and abroad, filming in Africa and South America on a feature documentary for CBC, as well as spending a winter in Yellowknife for History Channel’s Ice Pilots. It’s been hugely important project to me that I’m forever humbled to be a part of.

Kyle, thank you so much for letting us know a bit more about the incredible work you have done for this project! If you haven’t seen Kyle’s latest video yet, please click here.

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Drumroll Please...

The four students for the 2015 CBT Vietnam team have been selected!

I am proud to say I am joining one of the best teams here at Capilano University. The selection process was intense, fun, and competitive but all four of us agreed it was well worth the effort. We are immensely excited to contribute to this amazing project and are ready to get to work!

Now without further adieu, let me introduce the newest members!

First, we have Mia. She was born in Winnipeg, Manitoba but considers herself a true Islander, having grown up in Victoria, BC. Mia is most excited about embracing a new culture, as well as working alongside the women and children of the Lao Chai Community. Mia's favourite foods are sweet potatoes and sushi. Fun fact: Mia was a competitive gymnast for 12 years! 

Mia running a marathon!

Kyle was born in the Canadian capital of Ottawa; however, he found his love for the outdoors growing up in Washington state. Kyle is excited for the opportunity to experience a new environment and to build a trail in the mountainous region of Sapa, Vietnam! He has a love for any kind of chicken dish. On another note, he loves to mountain bike in his spare time.

Kyle kayaking in the Pacific Northwest.

Megan was born and raised in North Vancouver. She loves working with people, and is excited to get to know the locals of Vietnam. Megan is terrified of heights, but despite her fear has tried gliding, zip-lining,  climbed the Eiffel Tower and has even hiked the Atlas Mountains! Her favourite food is anything with cheese. Fun Fact: if you scramble up the letters in her first and last name it spells "Angel Dreams".

Megan hanging out with a camel.

And finally there's myself, Marina! I was born and raised in Vancouver with a love for anything by the sea. What I am most excited about Vietnam is to meet the people of the Lao Chai community and exchange knowledge and experiences with everyone I encounter. My favourite food is anything spicy, and I can usually be found in the kitchen cooking up a storm!

After a hike up The Chief in Squamish, B.C.

Keep an eye on our blog, as we will be posting our entire journey here!

Thank you #PATAFoundation and #CapU. And thank you #CBTVietnam for picking us!

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The stars of the CBT Vietnam project

For nearly a decade I have been fortunate to be a part of a community based tourism project through Capilano University. I have worked on this transformational project in Vietnam in varying capacities and have many people to thank.

Sapa's inspiring terraced landscape.

In northern Vietnam there is a (in)famous tourist destination known as Sapa. Inspiring terraced landscape, cool climate and colourful culture is easily accessible via overnight train. For one hundred years visitors have frequented Sapa. Tourism is here to stay.

The ‘CBT Vietnam’ project emerged from a trip to Sapa by a group from Hanoi Open University (Vietnam), Capilano University(Canada) and North Island College (Canada). Dr. Geoffrey Bird led an initial five-year project supported by the Association of Canadian Community Colleges. The project focused on skills-based training in the villages of Tavan and Taphin. Volunteer students and faculty from partner schools developed and delivered training primarily to local women. The goal was to create new opportunities for employment, develop a more sustainable form of tourism, and increase quality of life.

I was a student volunteer on the project who was changed by the experience. In fact, I took a leave from my studies and moved to Vietnam to travel and work in tourism. I was inspired.

Speaking with Khu in Lao Chai.

Two years after the project had completed I visited Taphin village and some of the locals. We discussed the idea of another project. Planning, entrepreneurship, network building, collective marketing and mutually beneficial partnerships were themes that would eventually lead to a series of projects generously supported by the PATA Foundation. The projects continue to bring Vietnamese and Canadian volunteer students together in the delivery of community tourism learning programs.

Some of the stars: Taryn, Stephanie, Jase and Kyle.

My current role as a project lead, and the successes it brings, is the product of the hard work of many. I am thankful for those who have continued to selflessly put forth their time and effort. Instructors and Deans, Stephanie Wells, Jen Reilly, Kim McLeod, Dr. Chris Bottrill, Casey Dorin, Ms. Ngoc Anh and Ms. Que have been instrumental in making these projects happen. The countless students that have been on the CBT Vietnam project are the heroes and heroines. Our stars. In the field they have excelled. They have been the energy and the true grit of the project. 

In a training workshop. Ms. Ly Man May is pictured second from the left. 

But the people that deserve the most appreciation are those from the villages. They have inspired us all. Tearful goodbyes when we depart from a project trip are testament that we are more than partners in the experience. This community development project is not an ‘us’ and ‘them’ case study. People like Ms. Ly Man May in Taphin, Ms. Soi in Tavan and Ms. Mai in Lao Chai are some of the individuals that deserve all the credit. These resilient, thoughtful women have trusted and welcomed us into their homes. 

When you go to Sapa you might have the opportunity to stay with some of these women. Learn from them like we have, and when you leave, be sure to thank them in their language.

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So I'm back. What now?

Sam is pictured standing in middle of the back row with her fellow CapilanoU student volunteers.

I have been travelling pretty extensively for the last ten years. Whenever I had the opportunity I would save, plan, pack and go. Before the Vietnam trip I hadn't travelled for a year so one could imagine how excited and honoured I was wen I was selected as a student volunteer. With a full course load and working two new jobs I jumped right in!

An informal meeting in the Lao Chai.

Looking back on this past winter; the hours I stressed over not doing enough for the project, working too much, and my studies, at the time it felt like the end of the world. The experience of barely seeing the light at the end of the tunnel can be daunting.

Well, I did it! I reached the end of the tunnel, and damn it was awesome! Vietnam was amazing. Not only am I walking away with a new outlook, I have developed a new sense of humility and a incredible appreciation for the access to opportunities as a Canadian.

Some of the amazing women in Lao Chai. 

The women in the village taught me more than I could have ever brought to them as a member of the CBT Vietnam team. I owe them more then words can ever explain, and the only way to do right by them is to bring this knowledge and personal change and use it in the future. As my 440 Paper (the final graduating paper for my Tourism Management Degree) comes around I plan to use this and start my next chapter. I hope to find a female mentor with experience in community development, learn from her, and research a subject around females in tourism.

Looking forward to new challenges, opportunities and experiences. Thank you CapilanoU, CBT Vietnam, and the PATA Foundation. 

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Connections and transformations

"How was your trip?" 

I get asked that question almost every day and it's probably the most challenging question to answer. The truth is, it's hard to express how much the CBTVietnam trip means to me. Whenever, I try to explain it I never feel like I do it justice as words can't describe it. It was a trip of a life time and can only be truly understood by experiencing it for oneself. However, I want people to hear about it even if its only a taster of how inspiring and rewarding it was.

Going to Vietnam was more than I could have ever wished or dreamt. I didn't believe it when Chris, Stephanie and Caitlin said it would change my life. It seemed cliche and unbelievable that one trip could touch that many hearts so deeply but once I arrived in Lao Chai all my doubts vanished. The villagers are the most welcoming, open and loving people I have ever met. Right away, they invited us into their homes and treated us like family.

While in Lao Chai, I worked with so many amazing people and witnessed how hard they worked everyday to make a living. Ms. Sao and Ms. Di are two local batik artists who run workshops in their handicraft shops just off of the main road that travels through the village.  I had the pleasure of working with them to further refine their workshops and find ways to advertise to the tourists. It was surprising how much we were able to communicate to each other without speaking the same language. These interactions showed me how powerful body language can be and how it can often be more effective because the meaning of words vary so much from culture to culture.

Working on the batik product also gave me a chance to see how strong the bonds of community are in the village. On the last CBT Vietnam Trip in August 2013, Ms. Di was the only batik artist running workshops in Lao Chai. Since then she shared the knowledge and resources on how to run a workshop with Ms. Sao, again illustrating the strong sense of community this village has. Sharing this information was not seen as a threat to business but a growth of the whole village. The unquestionable generosity and compassion of the Hmong people opened my eyes to the self-centred attitude that I often see at home.  

When I think back to the CBT Vietnam trip, I am amazed at how much I have learnt, not only about community based tourism and Hmong culture but about how to be a better person. The Hmong people showed me how beneficial and important it is to enter every situation with an open mind and a smile. 

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Life in Lao Chai

Two days in and life is good for the CBT team in Lao Chai. Or TLC as we like to refer ourselves as (#dontgochasingwaterfalls). Ms. Mai has been a gracious host for the team, cooking us fantastic meals, putting up with all of our belongings spread around the house, and serving us culturally acceptable glasses of rice wine. 

Yesterday I ran a workshop with the homestay operators that discussed the village map that Taryn (CapU Tourism alumni) and the locals created on the previous trip. This created a great conversation between the homestay owners and the potential it would have for tour operators, hotels, tour guides and other villages. Everyone got involved including some of the men, who had previously been more reserved within the   group. 

                  

                           
 

Even Ms. Dee from the homestay up in the hills, came down to engage in the community discussion. 

Many of the homestay people are concerned the tourists will not come and until then do not know if they should complete their homes. But the conversation had to bring back the focus on the need to build the homestays and the owners' capacity to be ready for when the tourists do arrive. And in the end, we all agreed that with a little hard work the tourist will come. 

One of the key moments of this workshop was educating the operators on basic English so they can host guests. The Hmong people are incredible learners when it comes to languages and were picking it up right away. Tonight we are meeting again at 7:00 PM to run a second language class to build their English vocabulary - some of them are planning to learn how to write. 

Overall it was a great day, everyone is killing it and having a stellar time! 

Good night from Lao Chai, and good morning to Vancouver. 

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The Journey of a Lifetime Continues!

 After 3 days in the busy capital of Hanoi, the CBT Vietnam team has finally arrived in SaPa!

With all of our supplies, luggage, and filming equipment, we hopped on an overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai. We all forgot about the rough 10 hour ride once we woke up with breathtaking views, cool weather, and refreshing smell of the mountainous area of Northern Vietnam.  What a change from the humidity of overcrowded Hanoi!

Once we arrived in the town, we checked into the beautiful SaPa Eden Hotel. While we waited for our rooms to be ready, the team headed to the rooftop restaurant for breakfast. It also gave us the chance to finally snap our own photos of this magical landscape!

For the next 10 days, the team will be staying in TaPhin and Lao Chai working on different projects, including homestay training, product development, and environmental training for kids.

We are all very eager to connect with the community and deliver the training we have been working on these past few months. Everyone is excited to stay in the homestays and build lifetime memories with the locals.

Did you know the project now has Instagram? Follow us at http://instagram.com/cbtvietnam!

Stay tuned with the CBT Vietnam blog and social media channels for more details on our work in the villages!

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Letters en route to Lao Chai!

I am honoured to announce that I am currently the mail carrier of 26 amazing letters written by a grade 4 class at Nelson Elementary School!

A couple weeks ago, the CBT Vietnam team came up with the idea to develop a pen pal relationship between an elementary school class in Vancouver and Lao Chai Elementary School.

So I got in contact with one of my elementary school teachers, Mrs. Chan, and pitched the idea to her. She loved it!

On Friday, I went into her class to visit and talk about the Vietnam trip. When I entered all the students knew me by name and eager to get started. For the letters, we asked them to introduce themselves and draw a picture of their favourite activity to do outside. All the students were so nervous about writing their letters. I kept getting questions like “How does this look?” or “Do they know this sport?” Many of them even did the letters twice just to make sure it was perfect!

Check out some of their letters! It seems like soccer is the class favourite.

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Making it happen in THEIR community!

From left: Taryn, Zu, Caitlin, Steph, Kristine, and La

One of the strengths with working in Lao Chai village is the community of local Hmong guides who call Lao Chai home.

As children, girls like Lyly, Chai, Zu, Za, and La followed groups of tourists as they trekked through their village and onto the neighbouring village of Tavan. The afternoons would have been spent befriending some of those trekkers from all over the world. A product of those friendships was an uncanny knack for picking up different languages including English. The ability to speak English along with their local knowledge made them the perfect candidates to become tour guides.

Lyly and Zu leading a community mapping workshop.

Today this community of guides, most of them girls, are famous for their friendly, charismatic and cheeky approach to guiding. They make up the greater majority of guides in the Sapa region, and have moved on to leading and managing tours throughout Vietnam.

Za teaching her mother and sister-in-law how to cook pancakes for breakfast.

Over the past week we have had five of these guides join our CBT Vietnam team. With little direction Lyly, Chai, Zu, Za and La have transformed from translators – both from Hmong to Vietnamese and Hmong to English – to community based tourism experts. They are leading community discussions, acting as homestay consultants, and delivering training to THEIR communities, neighbours, friends and family.

Lyly, Chai, Zu, Za, and La, from the entire CBT Vietnam team from Capilano University and Hanoi Open University, thank you for your support. Your enthusiasm and spirit have been instrumental over the past week.

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