Sa Pa's Tourism Development

It goes without question that tourism development alters the places where it occurs. How it alters these places and whether the results are positive or negative depend largely on how the complexity of development is managed. From a sustainability standpoint, tourism development occurring in an “ideal way” will result in widespread economic benefits for the local community, and tourism that doesn't degrade the local/natural environment or the well-being of the local people. The question is: what factors cause a destination to transform in a way that allows it to achieve these ideals?

The Sa Pa region of northern Vietnam is one that changed immensely through tourism development. Since the early 1900s when the French utilized Sa Pa as a holiday destination for the military, the area has experienced fluctuating levels of tourism. In the late 1940's visitation was halted completely when the region was attacked by Viet Minh. It wasn't until the 1990s that it picked up again, and is now showing little sign of slowing down.

The construction of a new hotels in Sa Pa town.

When you go to Sa Pa today, the “hustle and bustle” that comes along with tourism development is visible across all corners of town. One major enabler of the tourism industry’s growth is the recent addition of a national expressway that was built in 2014. Cutting the journey from Hanoi to Lao Cai (Sa Pa’s closest major city) in half, the new route has resulted in a steady influx of domestic tourists who travel to the mountain town on weekend getaways.

In addition to the growing weekend crowds, other signs of development are very noticeable. The construction of several large hotels is underway throughout the town, a new cable car is now operating on Mount Fanispan, and more and more locals from the surrounding villages are opening up homestays. On top of all this, a new domestic airport to serve Sa Pa has been proposed.

So, as Sa Pa town and the surrounding villages enter this new phase of tourism development, the question remains: what steps need to be taken in order to ensure that this development occurs in a way that is sustainable from environmental, socio-cultural and economic standpoints? Many believe that a community-based approach to tourism (one that is advocated by our team at CBT Vietnam), where the development is managed collectively by the local people is the optimum approach to sustainable tourism development.

It is our hope that as this region’s tourism industry continues to grow, that the local people from both the town and the surrounding villages will be able to work together using a community-based approach to achieve tourism development that is truly sustainable.

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5 Reasons to Stay at a Homestay in Sapa, Vietnam

5 Reasons You Should Stay at a Homestay in Sapa, Vietnam

Ms. May Kieu's Homestay in the Taphin Village

1. Cost

When searching for hotel accommodations in Sapa, you’ll be looking at spending $18-$127 per night. If you’re expecting a certain level of comfort, then homestays may not be right for you, but keep in mind that even with hotels, you never know exactly what you’re going to get. If you’re going for a homestay however, you’ll be looking at spending just $10-20 per night, and that’s with meals included! Food and accommodation as a package when living at a homestay costs a fraction of what you would pay for at a hotel (depending on the hotel). That leaves a lot more room to splurge on other things, like authentic handicrafts made by the local women as souvenirs for your friends and family back home!

2. Culture

Food preparation at Ms. Ly May Phuong's homestay in the Taphin Village

Sure, you can get a taste of the Vietnamese culture by strolling down the streets and reading a guidebook, but staying with a family will allow you to see the behind-the-scenes moments that most tourists just don’t get to see. Living with a local host gives you insight and perspective on how they really live, act, and feel by being fully immersed in their culture. This is something you just can’t experience from staying at a hotel.

3. Insider tips

Not only will you be able to see how these amazing ethnic minority cultures live, but also, chances are, if you build a friendship with them, they will let you in on some insider tips and secrets. Getting to know the locals can give you the opportunity to really enhance your experience abroad. If you’re new to a culture, you may not know where to start, what to do, or where to go. That’s where they come in. Ask your hosts for their thoughts and advice on what things you can do while you’re there, and you might just discover the best pho spot ever…yum!

4. Learn the language

It’s no secret that he best way to learn a language is to be fully immersed in it. Homestays offer you that very unique opportunity to learn the local language. Ask your hosts if they are up for a language exchange. They can teach you basics of their language in exchange for some English lessons. Most of them already speak English well, but you can always teach them more. You can also ask them to refrain from using English for basic conversations, that way you are forced to talk back in their language! Not only is it actually useful to know the local language while you’re there, but it will make you look pretty cool when you’re back home too!

5. Home cooked foods

A delicious home-cooked meal at Ms. Chao Ta May's home in the Taphin Village

Few things beat a home cooked meal. In fact, food is often considered a language of love; we cook for those we love and share meals with those important to us. Meal sharing at a local’s home has now become a popular option amongst travelers who are looking for a more personal experience, especially with the birth of meal sharing apps like EatWith and MealSharing. If you’re staying at a homestay though, you can skip the formalities because the hosts will be the one preparing the meals! If you’re up for it, try offering to help them prepare the food or ask them to teach you their recipes. This will help strengthen your friendship and make the experience even more extraordinary. And, of course, you will learn some delicious recipes to take home!

Those are our 5 reasons why you should stay at a homestay while you're in Sapa, Vietnam! Not yet convinced? Hop on over to our “Homestays” page on our website for more information on the homestays that are currently being offered. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us and we’ll be happy to answer them.

And finally, as always, be respectful to your hosts and their culture. You may experience culture shock when you're there, but as long as you stay open-minded, you will have an incredible time!

Good luck!

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Viêt Nam Trong Trái Tim Tôi: Vietnam is Always in My Heart

My trip with CBT Vietnam was my first time ever visiting an Eastern Culture, but I knew I was ready to be taken out of my comfort zone and try something new. After months of anticipation, and hours of preparation the day had finally arrived to depart for Hanoi.

While I was in Vietnam one of my largest tasks was to photograph every homestay and homestay owner in the Lao Chai and Ta Phin villages. I thoroughly enjoyed capturing moments from behind a lens, however I made sure to put them down for allotted times to soak in the culture as well.

In Ta Phin, Henry, Chung and I photo documented 12 homestays in one morning. That day I learnt that no matter how much I have to get done, I must stop and eat. Stopping to sharpen your axe could get you through the tree faster than continuing to chop with a blunt axe. The next day we began to document the homestays and small shops, and it would be four days before all 19 units were trekked to and documented.

This was an amazing task to be a part of because not only do I now have over 3,000 photos for my memories, but I also got a small glimpse of over 30 homes and the way 30 different families live their lives.

One of the large aspects to the trip was to prepare 12 of the village members for their trip to Hanoi in August.   My task was to facilitate learning around business development and finance to tie into my partner Marina’s lessons of presentation skills. The first lesson to break the ice I put an assortment of plastic toy animals on the table and got people to explain why they would be such animal. This helped to give me insight into their confident areas and helped to get people comfortable and laughing.

The Black H’mong had a good understanding as to what needed to be done to establish a sustainable homestay, however their main issue was finding the financial means. However, those who have found the financial means to change their homes have seen an improvement in their quality of life and that helps to encourage other families to get started who have a desire to improve their lives as well.

My favorite lesson I did was on the second day when I discussed business financing. To start the lesson off I asked everyone what they would do if they won the lottery for 5 Million Ɖ ($5,000 USD) as the introduction, and the reactions were enlightening. Every purchase was to improve the life of their entire family from a car to safely travel, to sending their kids to post-secondary school.

I had many members of the Lao Chai village come up and personally thank me for the information they received through that lesson which felt very rewarding.

All in all, the CBT Vietnam project is the coolest thing I have experienced in my life, and I would do it again in a heartbeat. I learnt so much about myself and my goals. Having an experience like this helped me to reevaluate my life intentions and what my needs as a human are to truly achieve happiness. I left this project feeling I had made some new close friends with the team I came with, and I feel I truly helped to make a difference in the village through the learning I helped to facilitate. On my last night in Hanoi I found an old propaganda poster that spoke to me, and I feel after this trip of a lifetime will remain true and relevant in my life. Viêt Nam Trong Trái Tim Tôi: Vietnam is always in my heart.

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The stars of the CBT Vietnam project

For nearly a decade I have been fortunate to be a part of a community based tourism project through Capilano University. I have worked on this transformational project in Vietnam in varying capacities and have many people to thank.

Sapa's inspiring terraced landscape.

In northern Vietnam there is a (in)famous tourist destination known as Sapa. Inspiring terraced landscape, cool climate and colourful culture is easily accessible via overnight train. For one hundred years visitors have frequented Sapa. Tourism is here to stay.

The ‘CBT Vietnam’ project emerged from a trip to Sapa by a group from Hanoi Open University (Vietnam), Capilano University(Canada) and North Island College (Canada). Dr. Geoffrey Bird led an initial five-year project supported by the Association of Canadian Community Colleges. The project focused on skills-based training in the villages of Tavan and Taphin. Volunteer students and faculty from partner schools developed and delivered training primarily to local women. The goal was to create new opportunities for employment, develop a more sustainable form of tourism, and increase quality of life.

I was a student volunteer on the project who was changed by the experience. In fact, I took a leave from my studies and moved to Vietnam to travel and work in tourism. I was inspired.

Speaking with Khu in Lao Chai.

Two years after the project had completed I visited Taphin village and some of the locals. We discussed the idea of another project. Planning, entrepreneurship, network building, collective marketing and mutually beneficial partnerships were themes that would eventually lead to a series of projects generously supported by the PATA Foundation. The projects continue to bring Vietnamese and Canadian volunteer students together in the delivery of community tourism learning programs.

Some of the stars: Taryn, Stephanie, Jase and Kyle.

My current role as a project lead, and the successes it brings, is the product of the hard work of many. I am thankful for those who have continued to selflessly put forth their time and effort. Instructors and Deans, Stephanie Wells, Jen Reilly, Kim McLeod, Dr. Chris Bottrill, Casey Dorin, Ms. Ngoc Anh and Ms. Que have been instrumental in making these projects happen. The countless students that have been on the CBT Vietnam project are the heroes and heroines. Our stars. In the field they have excelled. They have been the energy and the true grit of the project. 

In a training workshop. Ms. Ly Man May is pictured second from the left. 

But the people that deserve the most appreciation are those from the villages. They have inspired us all. Tearful goodbyes when we depart from a project trip are testament that we are more than partners in the experience. This community development project is not an ‘us’ and ‘them’ case study. People like Ms. Ly Man May in Taphin, Ms. Soi in Tavan and Ms. Mai in Lao Chai are some of the individuals that deserve all the credit. These resilient, thoughtful women have trusted and welcomed us into their homes. 

When you go to Sapa you might have the opportunity to stay with some of these women. Learn from them like we have, and when you leave, be sure to thank them in their language.

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Connections and transformations

"How was your trip?" 

I get asked that question almost every day and it's probably the most challenging question to answer. The truth is, it's hard to express how much the CBTVietnam trip means to me. Whenever, I try to explain it I never feel like I do it justice as words can't describe it. It was a trip of a life time and can only be truly understood by experiencing it for oneself. However, I want people to hear about it even if its only a taster of how inspiring and rewarding it was.

Going to Vietnam was more than I could have ever wished or dreamt. I didn't believe it when Chris, Stephanie and Caitlin said it would change my life. It seemed cliche and unbelievable that one trip could touch that many hearts so deeply but once I arrived in Lao Chai all my doubts vanished. The villagers are the most welcoming, open and loving people I have ever met. Right away, they invited us into their homes and treated us like family.

While in Lao Chai, I worked with so many amazing people and witnessed how hard they worked everyday to make a living. Ms. Sao and Ms. Di are two local batik artists who run workshops in their handicraft shops just off of the main road that travels through the village.  I had the pleasure of working with them to further refine their workshops and find ways to advertise to the tourists. It was surprising how much we were able to communicate to each other without speaking the same language. These interactions showed me how powerful body language can be and how it can often be more effective because the meaning of words vary so much from culture to culture.

Working on the batik product also gave me a chance to see how strong the bonds of community are in the village. On the last CBT Vietnam Trip in August 2013, Ms. Di was the only batik artist running workshops in Lao Chai. Since then she shared the knowledge and resources on how to run a workshop with Ms. Sao, again illustrating the strong sense of community this village has. Sharing this information was not seen as a threat to business but a growth of the whole village. The unquestionable generosity and compassion of the Hmong people opened my eyes to the self-centred attitude that I often see at home.  

When I think back to the CBT Vietnam trip, I am amazed at how much I have learnt, not only about community based tourism and Hmong culture but about how to be a better person. The Hmong people showed me how beneficial and important it is to enter every situation with an open mind and a smile. 

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Black Hmong: Ma's story

It's been a few weeks since I returned from Vietnam and found that I was missing Vietnam’s culture and nature, but mostly it was the connections with the people. While sorting through my pictures, I was back with the Hmong and remembered learning a lot from this minority group while staying with a young Hmong woman named Ma.

Ma a trekking guide for the FAM trip

Ma is a trekking guide and has just started a homestay in Lao Chai. During our first introduction, she invited me to stay with her and was very eager to get to know me. During our time in Lao Chai I spent a night at her place and was amazed by her great English skills and her sense of humour. Ma is only two years younger than me and although we are from very different countries and cultures I realized that we both share similar values.

Family is an important aspect of my culture as well as for the Hmong. Ma believes in family bonding and support for one another. In Hmong culture the whole family works together whether it's building a home or planting rice. Ma stayed with her family-in-law for three years while everyone helped build her new home. I was impressed with this cultural behaviour since it would be uncommon to find this level of support from people in my culture.

Ma’s house and rice field

I have worked many summers on various farms and developed an appreciation for nature. The Hmong people also value their natural surroundings for its diversity and balance. Ma thinks that letting her children play outside is good for them. It allows kids to experience danger themselves and have a better understanding of their environments. In addition, since Ma is also a farmer, nature becomes a necessity, she learned to respect the land at a very young age.

Another value Ma and I share is our open-mindedness. We are both curious about each other’s culture and we appreciate each other’s differences. Ma questioned me a lot about my life back home, especially about my diet and my family. During our goodbyes, she once again amused me when she spontaneously told me that I should have children soon while my body is still young. I laughed, but quickly felt sad to realize that I will deeply miss my new friend.

Ma and I before trekking the Muong Hua Valley

Working and living with the Hmong showed me how welcoming certain culture may be. Ma and many others have a generosity I have never seen and experienced before. Reflecting on the trip and our shared values I feel I have a better appreciation for simplicity and try to find happiness in the smallest things. Amongst this community, I have learned to be more respectful, attentive and patient with one another.

I would like to thank Capilano University, CBT Vietnam, PATA, and everyone that made this project possible. Without everyone’s initiative and hard work, I would not have the opportunity to meet inspiring and unforgettable people, such as Ma.

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The Journey of a Lifetime Continues!

 After 3 days in the busy capital of Hanoi, the CBT Vietnam team has finally arrived in SaPa!

With all of our supplies, luggage, and filming equipment, we hopped on an overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai. We all forgot about the rough 10 hour ride once we woke up with breathtaking views, cool weather, and refreshing smell of the mountainous area of Northern Vietnam.  What a change from the humidity of overcrowded Hanoi!

Once we arrived in the town, we checked into the beautiful SaPa Eden Hotel. While we waited for our rooms to be ready, the team headed to the rooftop restaurant for breakfast. It also gave us the chance to finally snap our own photos of this magical landscape!

For the next 10 days, the team will be staying in TaPhin and Lao Chai working on different projects, including homestay training, product development, and environmental training for kids.

We are all very eager to connect with the community and deliver the training we have been working on these past few months. Everyone is excited to stay in the homestays and build lifetime memories with the locals.

Did you know the project now has Instagram? Follow us at http://instagram.com/cbtvietnam!

Stay tuned with the CBT Vietnam blog and social media channels for more details on our work in the villages!

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Letters en route to Lao Chai!

I am honoured to announce that I am currently the mail carrier of 26 amazing letters written by a grade 4 class at Nelson Elementary School!

A couple weeks ago, the CBT Vietnam team came up with the idea to develop a pen pal relationship between an elementary school class in Vancouver and Lao Chai Elementary School.

So I got in contact with one of my elementary school teachers, Mrs. Chan, and pitched the idea to her. She loved it!

On Friday, I went into her class to visit and talk about the Vietnam trip. When I entered all the students knew me by name and eager to get started. For the letters, we asked them to introduce themselves and draw a picture of their favourite activity to do outside. All the students were so nervous about writing their letters. I kept getting questions like “How does this look?” or “Do they know this sport?” Many of them even did the letters twice just to make sure it was perfect!

Check out some of their letters! It seems like soccer is the class favourite.

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First Days in Hanoi

Talk about a whirlwind first few days! 

From our smiling faces, you would think that we are having the time of life, taking in the sights, sounds and experiences of life in Hanoi…. and you would be right! 

Everyone is adjusting well and we've been maximizing our time in the city with numerous activities, meetings, and meals. Our first day was filled with sightseeing, as we cruised around Hoan Kiem lake and enjoyed a delicious meal of bun bo (noodles with beef, herbs and salad). With many photo opportunities along the way, we made sure to make our mark on this chaotic and energetic city. 

At the end of the first night, the team met up with our HOU counterparts, Ms. Que, Ms. Ly, and past student volunteer Trung, for an amazing meal at the Sen Tay Ho buffet. We were also fortunate to have a member of Vietnam's Ministry of Tourism join us for a toast. As some of the newer team members realized, Capilano University's Cross Cultural Tourism class definitely is important to our understanding of these meetings!

Tomorrow we're off to Sapa and we're spending the day gathering supplies, wrapping up some prep work and getting ready for the night train. We'll be checking in regularly over the next few weeks so please make sure to follow us along on this blog and our various social media channels.

We now have Instagram, the highly addictive photo sharing site! 

As you can see from our feed, we LOVE sharing almost every moment of our adventure :)

Follow us at http://instagram.com/cbtvietnam!

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What a Night, we thank you!

Well the CBT Vietnam team's event of the first screening of Kyle Sandilands' "When the Villagers Left" was a success, with over 120 in attendance! It was not without a lot of last minute calling, facebooking, tweeting, and texting though as earlier in the week we were concerned that we would not meet the goal we of 100 tickets.

I personally phoned, texted, emailed and mailed every person I could think of and invited them to the event. I felt like mission control, counting out loud every time we sold another ticket. 40 soon jumped to 50, then soared to 70. I checked the Eventbrite page more than I checked my email, Facebook and Instagram combined.

Everyone worked tirelessly on this event. Hedieh collected five amazing films to support Kyle's, Emily organized the venue rentals while Sabrina dealt with our suppliers and coordinated the liquor licence, and Maggie took on posting signs everywhere and anywhere building  awareness for the event. Working as a team was incredible which bodes well in terms of the successes we will be able to reach when we travel to Vietnam.

This entire event never would have happened without our fearless leaders. Stephanie Wells and Chris Carnovale took charge of this event and guided us through every step. The success of this event directly reflects their leadership and efforts.

When the event day finally came around everything had come together We cheered when we sold over 100 tickets, (which was our goal) and Chris promptly said "lets make it 120". Alumni of the project came through and supported us with over 15 previous team members in attendance.

We were especially honoured to have Dr. Geoffrey Bird in attendance as he was one of the original founders of this project. Dr. Chris Bottrill, Dean of the Faculty of Global and Community Studies, as well as the project's Director was our MC for the night. In addition, 12 Dao community members who not call Surrey their home, came to the event in their traditional clothes.

All in all the event was a remarkable experience. It is one that I will never forget and I will be forever grateful to our friends, family, colleagues and supporters for showing up in hoards and backing the CBT Vietnam Project.

23 Days until departure. Not that we are counting or anything. 

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Vietnamese Lessons - Lesson 1

In preparation for our adventure in Viet Nam the Capilano University's CBT Viet Nam team has been practicing our Vietnamese. So far, we have learnt the basics with the help of our tutor, Donna, from the Everyday Viet channel on Youtube. This week, we learnt how to count to 10, say hello, goodbye, you're welcome and much more!

I will definitely have to practice and work hard to learn more phrases and words but as people say “practice makes perfect!”

Next week the new team and some of the CBT Vietnam alums will be meeting at a local phở shop. Hopefully I can try and few of my new words there. 

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Sapa is one for the books!

A new book “The Lost Girls”, written by three friends, chronicling their yearlong adventure around the globe, brings readers into the region of Sapa, and a guide name Tsu, a young Hmong woman.

The Lost Girls (I immediately fell in love, realizing I myself may be a lost girl) are from New York and tired of their careers and lack of adventure pack up their lives and take off on a year long adventure around the globe. Nearing the end of their trip they travel to Sapa via Hanoi and instantly fall in love…(albeit not with the February weather that is)…and take off on a three-night trek into a few villages.

Mastering the Sapa Slide, a dance created by their lack of skill during their trek through rain torn trails, the girls arrive in a homestay, and following dinner, are served “one part lighter fluid, two parts rubbing alcohol” (aka homemade rice wine). As part of our interview, Chris asked us how we would handle being served the local specialty at an early hour. Needless to say I may be a bit hesitant, but look forward to experiencing the local favourite.

Our last meeting coincidentally landed on the day in which I read the chapter dedicated to Sapa. I shared the pages with the team and after talking with not only our current team, but also past CBT Vietnam volunteers Caitlin and Nic, we realized the importance of the project, building sustainable tourism, and the value the training brings to the local communities.

These woman make us even more excited to travel with the team to Sapa and about the opportunity all of us have to work with these truly remarkable communities. We are all nervous; will we be able to do enough? The more and more we think about it we realize we are not the only one educating, but rather the locals will be educating us.

This week's mission: Eat some more Vietnamese food, start our Vietnamese language tutorials, 

and make sure our passports are current.

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