Spotlight on the Black H’mong

When thinking of the people residing in Vietnam your mind will likely start to conjure up images of the Vietnamese people. But, did you know that there are actually 54 minority groups that also call Vietnam their home?

Each of these ethnic minorities has their own unique culture and history that are wildly different from each other and from that of the Vietnamese. One of those ethnic minority groups is called the Black H’mong and they have a fascinating history and culture.

Black Hmong woman tending to her indigo-dyed hemp fabric - photo by Caitlin Rowe 

The exact origin of the Black H’mong people is still unknown to this day. This is partially because most of this culture’s history is passed down orally, making it challenging to trace. Some believed that they may have come from Europe, due to stories of ancestors having blue eyes and blonde hair. This is actually an occurrence that, even though rare, still happens today. However, through evidence surrounding similar linguistic patterns, it is believed that they spent at least 2,000 years in China up until approximately 300 years ago. The Black H’mong left China after rebelling against Chinese imperialism during the Ming and Qing dynasties. They found safety in areas of Northern Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam. 

Ms. May, owner of a homestay in Lao Chai - photo by Caitlin Rowe

In Sapa, the Black H’mong are the most populous group out of all of the ethnic minorities, with its people living in villages such as Lao Chai and Ta Phin. Many have relied on farming and agriculture as their main occupation; however, with the increase of tourists in the Sapa region, they now use tourism as a source of income. The relationship between tourists and the Black H’mong has been strained at times, primarily as a result of cultural conflict. Now armed with a better understanding of the tourist mindset and more conscious international visitors, the relationship has greatly improved. In today’s society, the Black H’mong people are happy to welcome tourists into their homestays and its people are learning how to use tourism to their advantage. 

References:

Lacharbey, Juliette. (n.d.). The Hmong People of North Vietnam. Scribol. Retrieved from http://scribol.com/anthropology-and-history/the-hmong-people-of-north-vietnam

Cha, Dia. (2004). Field Guide to Hmong Culture. Madison Children’s Museum. Retrived from 

http://csumc.wisc.edu/cmct/HmongTour/howwedidit/HMONG_FIELD_GUIDE_WEB.pdf

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Vietnamese? Yes Please!

Today, Kyle, Mia and I (Megan!) decided to expand our culinary horizons and try out some Vietnamese food together! We visited V Nam in North Vancouver. After much deliberation over the menu, the food arrived, piping hot and ready to eat.

Kyle, about to dig in!

Kyle, despite his love of chicken, opted to try something the waitress recommended to him. He ended up getting a beef dish, called Pho Tai Bo Vien. This dish looked so good, I am definitely going to have to try it when I get to Vietnam, if not sooner!

Mia is ready to chow down!

Mia is a vegetarian, and had the vegetable stir fry with vermicelli. Before we head over to Vietnam, we are going to try to get her to eat meat, because it is such a staple food in Vietnam. Mia and I won’t be heading over until August, so for now she gets a pass with the veggie dish.

Here's hoping I don't have food stuck in my teeth while I pose with my delicious food.

I had the Chicken Chow Mein, which was delicious. The sauce had just enough kick to it and the vegetables tasted so fresh. The noodles were rich and flavourful. I realized that I may need some more practice using chopsticks after Kyle and Mia finished eating much faster than I did.

Over lunch, we talked about places we are hoping to travel and what we want to do with ourselves once we've finished school. It was such a pleasure getting to know the people that I am going to be working on this amazing project with. I think our personalities complement each other really well and I can’t wait until our next meeting.

Near the end of our meal, Chris stopped by! We further discussed some of the exciting initiatives that we are going to be putting forth soon to get the project as much exposure as possible. I have a feeling that this won't be the only time we go out for Vietnamese food together. The only thing that will make our future lunch dates better is the lovely Marina joining us! 

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Black Hmong: Ma's story

It's been a few weeks since I returned from Vietnam and found that I was missing Vietnam’s culture and nature, but mostly it was the connections with the people. While sorting through my pictures, I was back with the Hmong and remembered learning a lot from this minority group while staying with a young Hmong woman named Ma.

Ma a trekking guide for the FAM trip

Ma is a trekking guide and has just started a homestay in Lao Chai. During our first introduction, she invited me to stay with her and was very eager to get to know me. During our time in Lao Chai I spent a night at her place and was amazed by her great English skills and her sense of humour. Ma is only two years younger than me and although we are from very different countries and cultures I realized that we both share similar values.

Family is an important aspect of my culture as well as for the Hmong. Ma believes in family bonding and support for one another. In Hmong culture the whole family works together whether it's building a home or planting rice. Ma stayed with her family-in-law for three years while everyone helped build her new home. I was impressed with this cultural behaviour since it would be uncommon to find this level of support from people in my culture.

Ma’s house and rice field

I have worked many summers on various farms and developed an appreciation for nature. The Hmong people also value their natural surroundings for its diversity and balance. Ma thinks that letting her children play outside is good for them. It allows kids to experience danger themselves and have a better understanding of their environments. In addition, since Ma is also a farmer, nature becomes a necessity, she learned to respect the land at a very young age.

Another value Ma and I share is our open-mindedness. We are both curious about each other’s culture and we appreciate each other’s differences. Ma questioned me a lot about my life back home, especially about my diet and my family. During our goodbyes, she once again amused me when she spontaneously told me that I should have children soon while my body is still young. I laughed, but quickly felt sad to realize that I will deeply miss my new friend.

Ma and I before trekking the Muong Hua Valley

Working and living with the Hmong showed me how welcoming certain culture may be. Ma and many others have a generosity I have never seen and experienced before. Reflecting on the trip and our shared values I feel I have a better appreciation for simplicity and try to find happiness in the smallest things. Amongst this community, I have learned to be more respectful, attentive and patient with one another.

I would like to thank Capilano University, CBT Vietnam, PATA, and everyone that made this project possible. Without everyone’s initiative and hard work, I would not have the opportunity to meet inspiring and unforgettable people, such as Ma.

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Letters en route to Lao Chai!

I am honoured to announce that I am currently the mail carrier of 26 amazing letters written by a grade 4 class at Nelson Elementary School!

A couple weeks ago, the CBT Vietnam team came up with the idea to develop a pen pal relationship between an elementary school class in Vancouver and Lao Chai Elementary School.

So I got in contact with one of my elementary school teachers, Mrs. Chan, and pitched the idea to her. She loved it!

On Friday, I went into her class to visit and talk about the Vietnam trip. When I entered all the students knew me by name and eager to get started. For the letters, we asked them to introduce themselves and draw a picture of their favourite activity to do outside. All the students were so nervous about writing their letters. I kept getting questions like “How does this look?” or “Do they know this sport?” Many of them even did the letters twice just to make sure it was perfect!

Check out some of their letters! It seems like soccer is the class favourite.

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First Days in Hanoi

Talk about a whirlwind first few days! 

From our smiling faces, you would think that we are having the time of life, taking in the sights, sounds and experiences of life in Hanoi…. and you would be right! 

Everyone is adjusting well and we've been maximizing our time in the city with numerous activities, meetings, and meals. Our first day was filled with sightseeing, as we cruised around Hoan Kiem lake and enjoyed a delicious meal of bun bo (noodles with beef, herbs and salad). With many photo opportunities along the way, we made sure to make our mark on this chaotic and energetic city. 

At the end of the first night, the team met up with our HOU counterparts, Ms. Que, Ms. Ly, and past student volunteer Trung, for an amazing meal at the Sen Tay Ho buffet. We were also fortunate to have a member of Vietnam's Ministry of Tourism join us for a toast. As some of the newer team members realized, Capilano University's Cross Cultural Tourism class definitely is important to our understanding of these meetings!

Tomorrow we're off to Sapa and we're spending the day gathering supplies, wrapping up some prep work and getting ready for the night train. We'll be checking in regularly over the next few weeks so please make sure to follow us along on this blog and our various social media channels.

We now have Instagram, the highly addictive photo sharing site! 

As you can see from our feed, we LOVE sharing almost every moment of our adventure :)

Follow us at http://instagram.com/cbtvietnam!

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