i am not a dark tourist, the world is a somber place

Arriving in Sri Lanka end of January this year, it struck me that over the past one and a half years, this was the third country with a really dreadful past that I was travelling.

Visiting a country and learning about its history can lead you to quite dark places. 

I'm not talking 'bout Stalingrad and WWII. No, here, dreadful past has been so recent that I do remember it being present, watching the news as a child.

How is that even possible? Am I subconsciously searching for terror and horror? Am I a dark tourist? Or is the world, sadly, just a quite somber place?

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The Ski Instructor of Sri Lanka

I'm often asked how it is to travel by myself. If I'm not scared. If I don't get lonely. If I'm not afraid that the sky may fall on my head tomorrow.

No, Sri Lanka looks nothing like this. Definitely not.
(Photo: Sondrekv, Påske, detail, cropped to 2:3, , CC0 1.0)

The answer has always been no - and meeting Sri Lanka's only ski instructor was proof that travelling solo is a great chance to come across people that open up to you in a blink of an eye.

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SRI LANKA - a Guide to the Island's Most Amazing Places

My three-week visit to the Island of Sri Lanka was a mesmerizing experience: The historic remains, the preserved natural richness, the white beaches, and colorful traditional attires were pleasing to the eye and soothing to the soul.

One of Sri Lanka's most sacred places: Aradhana Gala where Buddhist monk Mahinda landed as he met with King Devanampiyatissa.

Let this guide take you to some of the most amazing places this beautiful country has to offer.

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Guide to ANURADHAPURA and MIHINTALE

I chose Anuradhapura as my first stop for my Sri Lanka trip.

These kids can't wait to get to the Abayagiri Dagaba, one of the most sacred places in Anuradhapura.

Why? Because my friend Claudia told me to - and she has been to Sri Lanka many times and thought it would be a good point to start.

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Guide to POLONNARUWA

Polonnaruwa was not only the second most ancient of Sri Lanka's kingdoms, but it was also my second stop on the trip through Sri Lanka.

Welcome to the Kingdom of  King Parakramabahu I

And although it is - just like Anuradhapura - divided into a modern, busy New Town and what remains as the royal ancient city of the Kingdom, I felt much more comfortable here and enjoyed cycling criss-cross on the historic trails. Probably though, because Polonnaruwa is smaller and more overseeable - also for a person without any sense of orientation whatsoever. And most certainly because I stayed with the most welcoming and friendliest host. Ever!

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Guide to SIGIRIYA and a daytrip to DAMBULLA

Dambulla is much bigger and a real city and Sri Lanka's center of the vegetable distribution. However, Sigiriya is far more famous. It literally rocks.

In the old times, you were entering the complex through the lion's jaws. Today, only his paws are left.

It rocks because there is the almost 200 meters high Lion Rock. And the rock band - pun intended - shot some of the scenes from the music video Save a Prayer at the top.

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Guide to KANDY and a Temple Hike from Embekke to Pilimathalawa

Kandy is on every Sri Lanka-visitor's list - at least on a day trip. Many travellers are even coming here more or less straight from the airport.

Honestly, I didn't really get why. And even doing some additional online-research for this post proved me right: It is almost hysterically overrated.

Perfect point of orientation is the centrally located Kiri Muhuda lake.

However, a visit to Kandy is by no means a waste of time: There are the famous Sri Dalada Maligawa, the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic and the traditional dance shows in the early evening in the city center and many great outing destinations that can easily be reached by tuk-tuk or even by public bus.

So yes, go and visit Kandy, just don't expect it to be the highlight of your Sri Lanka-trip.

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The Highlands: Guide to NUWARA ELIYA and HAPUTALE

In Asia, each of the colonial powers - be it the British or the French - installed a refuge for themselves in the highlands. There, they found a milder, cooler climate and fertile soil to grow for instance tea.

Gardens and plantations dominate Nureliya's sceneries.

In Sri Lanka, this place is Nuwara Eliya - and you really cannot blame the British that they fell in love with this earthly Garden Eden.

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Guide to UDAWALAWE

Whatever you like, you'll find it in Sri Lanka: Whether it's archeological sites, lush sceneries in the highlands, jungles, beaches - and animals, lots and lots of wild animals and endemic birds.

In Udawalawe, the animals let you get really close.

The best way to see these beautiful creatures practically undisturbed in their natural habitat, you go on a Safari at of the national parks. To enjoy an idyllic and intimate experience, I opted for Udawalawe - and I was not disappointed.

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MIRISSA - Beach Hopping

I know: It is very tempting to just stay in one place and enjoy the 'dolce far niente' - especially after weeks of roaming the island.

The famous stilt fishermen waiting for a catch close to Coconut Beach in Weligama.

But why not doing nothing - but each day in another breathtakingly beautiful place? Beaches around Mirissa can be easily reached by bus, tuk-tuk, or a rented scooter - and every single of them is totally worth the "effort" of beach hopping.

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Guide to GALLE

Galle, the last stop on my trip through Sri Lanka, conquered my heart despite the fact that it's very touristy.

There is even a small beach next to Galle's iconic lighthouse.

It is one of the eight sites being listed as a UNESCO World Heritage - and while places like Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, Sigiriya, Dambulla, and Kandy are on the list for really, really old structures and architectonic sites, Galle is sort of the baby of the family: The beautiful, historic Galle Fort was built by the Portuguese in the 16th century and expanded and finished by the Dutch in the 17th century.


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Memos from SRI LANKA. 9th Memo: Galle - the birds nest in the chandelier

A colonial mansion in the walled old town of Galle, built first in 16th century by the Portuguese and eventually fortified by the Dutch colonialist during the 17th century.

Dark wooden windows in contrast to the white-washed walls.

One of these typical houses - white-washed and with windows and doors of dark wood.
Not so long ago, they still used to be shiny, but the sun here is merciless and the salty air from the ocean pulls its weight, too.
Therefore the wood, still intact, deems a bit weathered.

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Memos from SRI LANKA. 8th Memo: Mirissa - and life is a beach

It wasn't even on purpose that I neatly divided my trip into three parts: culture tour during the first week, nature trip during the second, and now it's the final countdown on the beach.

Mirissa beach - divided by the Rock Island - an ideal photo spot.

After having been a bit disappointed by Tangalle, I chose Mirissa as my next destination. All I can say is: Well done - hence, life is a beach, after all!

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Memos from SRI LANKA. 7th Memo: Good Luck in Tangalle. It's not so easy being an expat.

Tangalle - another town, another homestay.

Goyambokka - one of Tangalle's nicer beaches.

I'm staying at a room in a lovely...yes, one could call it a mansion. My hosts are a couple from....well, he is a native Sri Lankan, she is from Ukraine, they were living together in Austria and he decided to come back to Sri Lanka due to the supposedly increasing xenophobia in Europe.

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Memos from SRI LANKA. 6th Memo: Udawalawe - The Elephant in the Roam

Sri Lanka has so much to offer - they even have Safaris. The only kind of shootin' is with your camera, of course.

Solitary elephant taking a foot bath.

Although the most popular Safari-site is Yalla, the national park of Udawalawe doesn't offer only the far cooler name, it grants also a much more idyllic and intimate experience - mainly with elephants, that are not in the room since they are roaming practically everywhere.

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Memos from SRI LANKA. 5th Memo: Out of Nuwara Eliya

You can plan and organize basically everything. Everything but the weather.

Pedro Tea Estate in Nuwara Eliya. The clouds to the right turned out to be really mean.

While I was soaking in the dreamy landscape around Nuwara Eliya, the rolling hills covered with tea bushes, the skies opened and within minutes, everything was....soaked.

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Memos from SRI LANKA. 4th Memo: My Kandy-d opinion

Kandy - geographically and metaphorically Sri Lanka's navel: Everybody comes here, some people even straight from the airport.

One of the nicest views of Kandy - and I didn't even have to climb on some mountain for it.

After three days in Kandy, I ask myself: Why?

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Memos from SRI LANKA. 3rd Memo: Rocking it in Sigiriya

With titles like this, I will never make it to the top of the blogger billboard charts, I know. But it's simply too tempting

Another day, another place, another homestay.

It's at the back of beyond, but there sure is a beautiful view.

Sigiriya is probably the most famous and iconic landmark in Sri Lanka, and while Sigiriya is also a town, it's mainly small houses scattered in a jungle-ish area, and I think I unerringly picked the most remote one. However, I was rocking it there - big time!

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Memos from SRI LANKA. 2nd Memo: Little house on the P...olonnaruwa

Polonnaruwa was the second capital of Sri Lanka after the destruction of Anuradhapura in 993. I must say that due to their length, these Sri Lankan names are very twitter-unfriendly.

Bright lights, big city? Well, not here.

Apart from the Brahmanic monuments built by the Cholas, Polonnaruwa consists of the monumental ruins of the garden-city created by Parakramabahu I in the 12th century.

Just like the Sacred City of Anuradhapura, it was inscribed in the UNESCO-list of  World Heritage Sites in 1982.

One of the greatest masterpieces on the  site: The Buddhas of Gal Vihara.

And I like it much better - due to three reasons:


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Memos from SRI LANKA. 1st Memo: An unexpectedly scenic train ride to Anuradhapura

So I'm in Anuradhapura. Anu... what? Read my lips: Anuradhapura. It looks like this....

View of two Stupas - Thuparamaya and Ruwanwelisaya - across lake Thissa Wewa

...and is one of Sri Lanka's ancient capitals. Although it's also famous for its ruins of an ancient Sri Lankan civilization, there are pleasingly few tourists around, but huge numbers of truly faithful.

O come, all ye faithful, joyful, and triumphant....to the Abhayagiri Dagaba in the northern part of Anuradhapura.

I feel like I just fell into a different, totally fascinating world.


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