The Island of BORKUM - West of East Frisia

The tour of German islands is coming to an end: I've taken you with me from the former easternmost isle in the Baltic across the north sea to the Dutch border - where we'll spend a couple of carefree summer days on Borkum.

Doesn't this beach with the colorful chairs and cabanas just look like the perfect summer destination?!

The island of Borkum is one of the seven East Frisian Islands off the coast of Eastern Friesland. It is not only the largest, but also the westernmost and therefore geographically actually closer to the Netherlands than to the German mainland.

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The Island of NEUWERK - where the way is the goal

"So, by which ferry did you get here?" asks the chubby little lady and her accent gives her away as Southern German. "Well, I came here walking", I beam at her, still thrilled by my hike from the mainland to the island of Neuwerk.

To Neuwerk - this way! You cannot blame people if they don't believe that you came to an island walking.

The lady looks over the rough sea where the huge waves are rolling towards the shores of Cuxhaven. She frowns and shakes her head and is, obviously, thinking I'm trying to tell her a cock and bull story.
Little does she know: Visiting the island of Neuwerk, the way is the goal; definitely.

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The Island of HELIGOLAND - soft spot with rough edges

A trip to Heligoland is always a good idea: On just one square kilometer, it unites soft sand dunes and rough cliffs, adds tax-free shopping to natural wonders like frolicking seals and jumping guillemots.

The number of gannets on the rocks on Heligoland's western cliffs will just overwhelm you.

Heligoland is a tiny archipelago that long ago used to be Danish and British, but is, actually, as German as can be since the poet Von Fallersleben wrote the National Anthem during his stay on the island in 1841.

However, visiting Heligoland today, either on a day trip or for a longer stay, it is almost impossible to imagine that at the end of  WWII, Germany's supposedly only deepsea island was completely bombed out and even uninhabitable for ten long years.

Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, today, Heligoland is one of Germany's most popular island when it comes to a couple of relaxing days in a secluded spot.

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The Island of FÖHR - every village a home

Föhr - every village a home: What's that all about?

I'm not able to figure out Föhr's strongest suit - there are so many great things to do and see; the traditional architecture is certainly one of the most alluring ones.

Well, let me take you to one of Germany's most popular holiday islands where almost each of the 16 villages' name ends with the suffix -um. Since this is the Frisian and Lower German version of heim...which translates to home, you can imagine how cozy and homey this North Frisian island is to its....homies.

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The Island of FEHMARN - Where Plan B is the Best Plan

I've had a soft spot for the Northgerman Island of Fehmarn for the longest time: Beaches, Breezes, Birds, and endless fields of Brassica Napus -
I don't really have to explain why on this island in the Baltic sea Plan B is the Best Plan, do I?

Cycling along rapeseed-fields - the basic activity of our stay on Fehmarn.
(Photo: Mimi Green)

Brassica Napus - translates to rape in English, a term I can hardly sell you in a positive way. However, let the endless fields of bright yellow speak for themselves.

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Are The Airlines Spying On Us Yet?

At one point, a couple decades ago, some of the high-end airlines introduced a privacy feature for first class travelers: enclosed cabins. A flight attendant could stand oh his or her toes and took over the wall, but otherwise you could do whatever you wanted in privacy. Apparently, too many people did and they seem to have abolished them. Now it looks like they're introducing the opposite: tiny cameras that can watch you during the flight. Do you think that's a little intrusive? You're watching a move and "someone" is watching you-- an airline employee? a government entity?

Last month, CNN reported that Singapore admits they have embedded cameras in their newer inflight entertainment systems but claim they're deactivated. "Deactivated?" Why are they there then-- in order to be activated next week or the week after?

The fact that some aircraft seats have built-in cameras is not new knowledge. Singapore Airlines' inflight entertainment system is manufactured by Panasonic Avionics, a US-based company that supplies IFE for many of the major airlines and French company Thales. Panasonic announced a while back that it's added cameras onto seat backs.

And in 2017, Panasonic Avionics announced a partnership with Tascent-- a biometrics and identity innovation company.

"The companies will combine Tascent's biometric identity devices, software and services with Panasonic Avionic Corporation's in-flight entertainment and communications systems to provide streamlined, easy-to-use identity recognition before departure, during flight and upon arrival," read the corresponding press release.

The idea was seat-back cameras could facilitate onboard immigration, skipping lines when you land. It was also suggested that a seat-back camera could aid payment processing for onboard shopping.

At the 2017 Dubai Airshow, Panasonic Avionics announced the latest incarnation of Emirates' IFE in First Class and Economy-- specifying it featured a camera, plus a microphone and speaker.

In the age of the smartphone, everyone holds a tiny cinema in their hand, so there's certainly an expectation that airlines will have exciting entertainment options-- a screen simply showing movies won't cut it anymore.

But has Emirates ever done anything with its on-board cameras?

"Some of our 777 aircraft have cameras that came pre-installed with the inflight entertainment hardware that we had purchased from the manufacturer (Panasonic)," a spokeperson for the Dubai-based airline told CNN Travel. "It was originally meant for seat-to-seat video calls, however Emirates has never activated it."

This echoes Singapore Airlines' comment on the issue.

"These cameras have been intended by the manufacturers for future developments," the airline says. "These cameras are permanently disabled on our aircraft and cannot be activated on board. We have no plans to enable or develop any features using the cameras."

Meanwhile, American Airlines told CNN Travel that cameras are "a standard feature," but are not activated and the carrier has no plans to use them.

A spokesperson for Aussie carrier Qantas also told CNN Travel that IFE manufacturers include inbuilt cameras as standard-- and said the airline couldn't activate the cameras, even if they wanted to.

"The feature would require software in order to be activated, which Qantas doesn't have and doesn't plan to install."

Air New Zealand and British Airways told CNN Travel there were no cameras on board any of their aircraft.

Two images obtained by CNN Travel of an IFE system on a British Airways airplane depict what looks like a lens of some kind. BA describes it as an infrared environmental sensor rather than a camera.

But are airplane seat cameras a bad idea? Some aviation experts think they could improve the onboard, inflight experience.

Joe Leader, CEO of aviation trade body Airline Passenger Experience Association (APEX) think there's several handy usages for these cameras.

As well as facilitating video chat between passengers, the cameras could look out for passengers becoming unwell or monitor cabins for suspicious behavior.

The cameras could also be used to spot human trafficking or assault-- acting as an extension of the air steward's eyes.

As for the privacy concern, APEX points out the ubiquity of cameras in 21st century society.

"Today, airline passengers are typically tracked outside the aircraft dozens of times on a typical journey through stores, security, roadways, and airports by cameras without any permission," APEX says in a statement.

"In contrast, airlines only want to use cameras in the future with permission when technology has advanced to offer personalized service improvements that passengers desire."

Hacking fears, suggests APEX, are "misplaced."

"The greatest risk to airline passenger privacy breaches come from their own smartphones, tablets, cameras, computers, and smart devices used in private settings, " says APEX.

The concern for some fliers is that even if the existence of these seat-back cameras aren't a secret-- and even if they could facilitate some cool features-- it feels disingenuous that their presence isn't advertised.

When contacted by CNN Travel, Panasonic Avionics stressed that it was committed to the privacy of passengers.

"Panasonic Avionics will never activate any feature or functionality within an IFE system without explicit direction from an airline customer," the company said in a statement to CNN.

"Prior to the use of any camera on a Panasonic Avionics' system that would affect passenger privacy, Panasonic Avionics would work closely with its airline customer to educate passengers about how the system works and to certify compliance with all appropriate privacy laws and regulations, such as [The EU's data privacy regulation] GDPR."

But although Panasonic Avionics and the airlines say the cameras are currently deactivated-- they're not physically covered up and passengers remain worried about hacking.

These systems are expensive and they're not just there so they could be not used. The airlines should stop bullshitting their customers for a change. One consumer advocacy group pointed out that "Air travel is already fraught with ineffective and invasive breaches of our personal privacy. But now the airlines themselves have gone even further with cameras and microphones pointed at passengers as they watch movies, eat snacks, or just sleep. And the implications of in-flight cameras are even bigger than the discomfort of the airline watching you sleep on a red-eye. It’s still unknown to what extent the federal government could be able to acquire that data, without a warrant or probable cause, or process the camera footage through faulty facial recognition programs that misidentify women and people of color."

I'm old enough to remember when flying was a treat. That was a long, long, long time ago. Are you thinking I'm being too alarmist here? If so, take a look at this. "German Chancellor Angela Merkel has introduced a bill that would allow German spy agencies to hack into nearly any computer and conduct espionage on a wide swath of citizens and foreigners. Drawn up by Interior Minister Horst Seehofer, the bill greatly expands the espionage powers of Germany’s intelligence service, the bnd. Although Seehofer has been notorious for opposing the chancellor on many occasions, he seems to have persuaded her to support this latest bill. This time, opposition is coming from Merkel’s coalition ally, the Social Democratic Party (spd). The spd justice minister has expressed outrage at one clause in particular, which would allow spies to collect information on children under 14 years old. The justification for this clause rests on the 2016 case of a 12-year-old who was involved in a plot to bomb a Christmas market.

Many Germans are critical of the bill. “This amounts to a massive extension of intrusive surveillance,” said Sven Herpig, a researcher from the New Responsibility Foundation. Germany’s Left Party also condemned the bill, calling it a “catalogue of Orwellian fantasies.”

In the recent past, however, many similar “fantasies” have become reality.

In 2017, Germany proposed an “unprecedented spate of new surveillance and security laws.” Most of these were passed and are in force today, yet they are rarely discussed.

The biggest concern is currently the government’s State Trojan spyware law. This allows government spyware to be covertly installed on a target’s mobile phone. The spyware can lie dormant for a set period of time, remaining undetected for years, before being activated to collect data on the user’s calls, chats and Internet activity. And this isn’t limited to phones; the spyware can also be used to spy on people through smart devices, like speakers or fridges that can connect to the Internet, greatly infringing upon privacy rights.

Before the State Trojan law was passed, only the federal Criminal Office had the power to employ this method of espionage. Now this power is in the hands of the state itself.

The new law also grants permission for the bnd to use this spyware against foreigners. Both the Criminal Office and bnd have expressed a desire to “cooperate more effectively against ‘transnational’ threats, such as terrorism and organized crime.”

Airlines in Germany are bound to collect and retain the contact details of their passengers, means of booking, payment, and even seat choice, for up to five years. Although presented as an EU requirement, critics have said that this law goes well beyond what is required by Brussels.

Other laws passed in 2017 regulate increased video surveillance of public areas and more detailed research into the background of migrants, both of which came in the aftermath of the 2016 Christmas market terrorist attacks.

Last month, Senators Jeff Merkley (D-OR) and John Kennedy (R-LA) sent a joint letter to Delta, Southwest, Frontier, United, Spirit, American, JetBlue, and Alaska, noting their concern about a possible "serious breach of privacy."

While Americans have an expectation that they are monitored in airports as a necessary security measure, the notion that in-flight cameras may monitor passengers while they sleep, eat, or have private conversations is troubling. Further, in light of data breaches that have impacted many major airlines, we have misgivings that cameras or sensors may not employ the necessary security measures to prevent them from being targeted by cybercriminals.

For these reasons, we respectfully request that the following information be provided regarding the cameras on in-flight entertainment systems:

1- Does your airline currently use, or has ever used, cameras or sensors to monitor passengers;
2- If yes, what purpose do the cameras serve and in what circumstances may the cameras be activated;
3- If you have or currently do utilize cameras or sensors to monitor passengers, please provide details on how passengers are informed of this practice;
4- Please provide comprehensive data on the number of cameras and sensors used by your fleet, and the type of information that is collected or recorded, how it is stored, and who within your airline is responsible for the review and safekeeping of this information;
5- Further to the above, please confirm what security measures you have in place to prevent data breaches of this information, or hacking of the cameras themselves; and
6- Are the cameras used in any biometric identity capacity, and if so, under what authority?

We look forward to learning more about these practices and request a response within 30 days.

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mini guide to MUNICH

Munich, capital of the federal state of Bavaria, stands, of course, for the famous beer and the Oktoberfest and is practically the epitome of Germany.

With about 1.5 million inhabitants, Munich is Germany's third largest city - after Berlin and Hamburg and a great gateway for trips to many idyllic lakes and mountains. But even the city center has a rather cozy feel to it - with parks and greeneries, the river Isar, many historic buildings and fantastic museums.

Mary overlooking the Marienplatz from her column. In the backdrop Munich's most iconic symbol, the Frauenkirche, Church of Our Lady - it cannot get more Bavarian.
(Photo: Nicknicknick97, München Marienplatz , CC BY-SA 4.0)

Since Munich also has Germany's second largest airport - after Frankfurt - chances are that you have a stopover here.

If you have a layover of at least six hours, make the most of it by taking a quick ride by commuter train into the city center. This guide will lead you to the most interesting and iconic places - whether rain or shine.

If your layover is too short to squeeze in a day trip downtown - no problem, just come back for a city break like e. g. a weekend trip. This way, you'll have enough time to explore all the points of interest listed in this

mini guide to Munich

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HAMBURG - revisited and re-edited

Hamburg revisited: Germany's second largest city prides itself to be the "most beautiful city in the world". While this, of course, is just a highly exaggerated catchphrase, it actually is alluring with views that make you yearn for undiscovered shores - Germans call it 'Fernweh' (loosely 'aching for distance') - lots of maritime charm and its historic openness to the world.

Along the river Elbe all the way to the Northern Sea...who wouldn't get the travel bug with this view?
(Photo: © Andreas Vallbracht / www.mediaserver.hamburg.de)

However, since this guide was published, it has become one of my blog's most popular posts. A valid reason to re-edit and update it!

HAMBURG - gateway to the world

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24 hours in...MUNICH

(Update March 2019)

Munich, capital of the federal state of Bavaria, stands, of course, for the famous beer and the Oktoberfest and is practically the epitome of Germany.

With about 1.5 million inhabitants, Munich is Germany's third largest city - after Berlin and Hamburg and a great gateway for trips to many idyllic lakes and mountains. But even the city center has a rather cozy feel to it - with parks and greeneries, the river Isar, many historic buildings and fantastic museums.

Mary overlooking the Marienplatz from her column. In the backdrop Munich's most iconic symbol, the Frauenkirche, Church of Our Lady - it cannot get more Bavarian.
(Photo: Nicknicknick97, München Marienplatz , CC BY-SA 4.0)

Since Munich also has Germany's second largest airport - after Frankfurt - chances are that you have a stopover here.

If you have a layover of at least six hours, make the most of it by taking a quick ride by commuter train into the city center. This guide will lead you to the most interesting and iconic places - whether rain or shine.

If your layover is too short to squeeze in a day trip downtown - no problem, just come back for a city break like e. g. a weekend trip. This way, you'll have enough time to explore all the points of interest listed in this mini guide to Munich.

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Coming to America: From Northern Germany to the "New World"

In the 19th and 20th century, millions of people left Europe via the North German ports of Hamburg and Bremen respectively Bremerhaven in search of a better life in the "New World", mostly the USA.

This sculpture called Die Auswanderer, emigrants, is standing on the shore of the river Weser and remembers the seven million passing through the port of Bremerhaven. Actually, this statue by Frank Varga was donated by the German-American Memorial Association.

As a counterpart to the arrival halls in Ellis Island, several museums in German cities remember the adventurous journeys of the emigrants in transit.

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CUXHAVEN - walking on water

"The sun reflects strongly off the puddles, so don't forget to put sun protection on your knee pits", orders Ute pointing at my bare legs. I already did, but under her strict eyes, I repeatedly do as I am told. I do everything Ute marshals: The next four hours, she will guide me together with about two dozens other hikers into the tideland off the shore in Cuxhaven. My life will depend on her knowledge and sense of orientation.

Crossing the mudflat from Cuxhaven to the Neuwerk island. About twelve kilometers laid ahead of us.

We will be sort of walking on water - so I better listen to my leader.

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BOOMTOWN BREMERHAVEN. A complete guide.

Last week, I've guided you through Bremen, Germany's smallest Federal States consisting of only two relatively small cities: Bremen and its exclave Bremerhaven, located about 60 km up North where the river Weser empties into the North Sea.

Let me introduce you right away to one of Bremerhaven's greatest attractions, the Seute Deern (which in Low German means Sweet Girl), world's last cargo sailing ship made entirely of wood.
Today, this fine lady houses a museum and a lovely restaurant.

Which, by the way, was the main reason to build Bremerhaven in the first place: The direct access to the North Sea.

After a changeful history, today the city is almost secretly evolving into a Boomtown.


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BREMEN - BIG and small. A complete city guide.

Bremen, located in the northwest, is definitely not Germany's most famous city. However, visitors who find their way here, will certainly be surprised - and even rewarded: The historic old town - partly a UNESCO world heritage site - deems like the capital of a fairyland; and you'll actually run into some fabulous creatures and fairy tale figures.

Mr. Roland in front of the town hall: As long as he stands tall, Bremen remains free and independent.

But there is far more to discover in this Free Hanseatic City.

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DÜSSELDORF - guided by locals

Alone in Düsseldorf's old town are about 260 bars and restaurants - which makes the city the self-proclaimed "longest bar of the world".

Father Rhine and His Daughters - living on a fountain in front of the Ständehaus that houses the K21 gallery for contemporary art.

But this jovial city is far more than a bender- and stag party location. I've asked five very special locals to guide you to the most interesting and beautiful places.

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BERLIN - a complete guide to the Wild Wild East

A couple of weeks ago, I took you on a smooth ride across Berlin, Germany's exciting capital, by bus #100. We started at the Alexanderplatz in the east and went westwards all the way to the former main train station Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten.

At the East Side Gallery, on this picture by street artist and wall painter Birgit Kinder you can see a Trabant - aka Trabi - one of two types of cars that were manufactured in the former GDR and everyone in the west made fun of. The Trabi is crashing through a wall - guess which one - and its license plate reads Nov 9, 89 - the date the gates to the west were open and the wall - and finally the GDR - came down. 

In today's post, let's discover what you get to see and experience when you turn east at the Alexanderplatz - and walk right into the heart of the ex-capital of the former GDR - the German Democratic Republic.

You'll see: It's the Wild Wild East!

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Picture This: 7th Triennial of Photography in Hamburg

For the 7th time, a major exhibition of photography is being shown in Hamburg - and all the significant museums have chipped in with thoroughly conceptualized exhibitions, all wrapped around the central motto [BREAKING POINT. SEARCHING FOR CHANGE]

One of the containers from the section [ENTER] - presenting 15 artists with a strong social, political, and most of all ecological focus.

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POTSDAM - how Frederick made a small town great

Potsdam, located about 40 km / 25 miles South-West of Germany's capital, is often considered Berlin's suburb. As a matter of fact, it can be reached by regional or urban train in more or less half an hour. Potsdam has barely 175,000 inhabitants but is still the most densely populated city of the federal country Brandenburg - and also its capital.

Sanssouci Palace is Potsdam's highlight, no matter what.

All this might make it sound like a cute, drowsy hamlet, but you'll be amazed to see it's rich heritage - and how Frederick made this small town great.

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BERLIN guide: get the most for less on bus number 100

(Updated July 2018)

Who needs an expensive hop on hop off-bus when you get to see Berlin's most important sights and sites right from the city bus number 100. Buy a cheap Welcome Card that allows you to explore Germany's capital on your own and get the most for less.

Pariser Platz on the Eastern side of the Brandenburger Tor - where the gate used to divide East and West Germany.
Today it's the busiest touristy spot in all Berlin.

Talking 'bout getting the most: If you actually get off at every attraction that I am introducing, you won't be able to do the tour, that in one go actually doesn't take much longer than half an hour, in one day - the Museum of German History alone is worth a visit of a couple of hours. But take it as a golden thread and follow the route in legs depending on how many days you have and what's most interesting for you.

By the way - you'll get important general info on visiting Berlin at the end of this post, so just scroll down.

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The GalleryWeekend - and other themed weekends in Berlin

Yes, it's true: Berlin, Germany's capital city, is always worth a visit: The history and the stories, the Prussian traditions and the worldly scenes - hardly any other German city has such a variety of must-sees, must-visits - in brief: must-experience to offer to its visitors.

An additional, charming aspect of the GalleryWeekend are the cozy corners under blooming trees in the courtyards.  

Are you still waiting for the special occasion to finally go - or to come back again?

Well, Berlin makes a point by offering a row of special themed weeks, weekends, and 'long nights' - like the exciting GalleryWeekend that I just attended. The variety is huge so that everybody will find something he's enthusiastic about. Check it out in this post....and go pack your weekender!


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Reality in Black and White

I'm very much into art. After having seen trizillions of beautiful, alluring, enchanting works of arts, I enjoy it most when an exhibition - or even an individual artist - surprise me.

Soft strokes become sharp splinters.
Robert Longo Untitled (Bullet Hole in Window, January 7, 2015)
(Courtesy Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac © Robert Longo/ VG Bild-Kunst Bonn, 2018)

Last weekend, I got surprised by Robert Longo - he baffled me with reality in black and white.

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